I’ve always found France to be a little challenging. In fact, the word that most reminds me of my first trip to Paris is not “croissant” or “vin” or “amour,” but “non.”
Non, I will not give you the croque monsieur you ordered. You can have this unidentifiable pile of food.
Non, the taxi drivers are on strike, so perhaps you should take the Metro to the airport.
Non, you cannot take the Metro in this direction today.
Non, I cannot tell you why. I’m going on a smoke break.
When The Diplomat and I received an invitation to a wedding in Southern France, however, we immediately said “oui” to a trip to Nice and began planning for soleil-filled days and rosé-filled nights. (The French fiancé also suggested we read Talk to the Snail: Ten Commandments for Understanding the French, which explains the mystifying service in France, among other things.)
Following an unusually cold, snowy winter in Washington that crawled at the pace of a Parisian waiter ready for his break, our European road trip, which began with 24 hours in Nice before the wedding, couldn’t come soon enough. Though the French air traffic controllers’ strike threatened our travel–and the rental car agency needed convincing that, yes, we did reserve a car with a GPS–we finally arrived in Nice, which, I was delighted to discover, lives up to its name.
Sleep
I booked Le Meridien Nice (1 Promenade des Anglais) out of convenience. Located in the city center on the Mediterranean, the hotel had some of the most reasonable rates of the luxury chains–and, I could earn points with Starwood, one of my favorite hotel brands. Though we were eager to get to our friends’ beautiful wedding, we could have stayed another week in this hotel.
Although I’d been wearing my leggings and tee for nearly 18 hours in American tourist fashion, the warm staff surprised us with an upgrade from a Classic Room to an Executive Room–a world away from our creaky hotel in Paris’ Left Bank, where the cold front-desk agent locked us out after 11 p.m. The room was clean and modern, and we appreciated the large bathroom and American-style shower after our long journey.
But the huge terrace sold us on the city. Against the backdrop of Nice’s twinkling skyline and the postcard-perfect Mediterranean sunset, we got ready for our evening, enjoying the live music and faint, magical sound of the carousel in the verdant park below.
Drink
It’s hard to find a good cocktail in Europe–and since a bottle of good wine costs as much as a bottle of water, it’s even harder to justify a vodka-soda. The first night of our luxuriously long vacation, however, required something celebratory. The Diplomat and I strolled a few blocks to Le Negresco (37 Promenade des Anglais), the regal hotel built in 1912 by Henri Negresco, a Romanian who made his fortune as a casino bigwig. While much of the art and oddities around the property are something out of Lewis Carroll’s imagination, Le Relais Bar reminded me of one of my favorite lounges, New York’s Campbell Apartment, with a Jazz Age vibe and excellent cocktails to match. The Diplomat took the opportunity to savor a few dry martinis, though I recommend the perfectly bitter Singapore Sling.
Dine
As the clock neared midnight, our hungry bellies grumbled, and we knew exactly what we wanted…
I’m sure there are innumerable fine restaurants in Nice. The French deserve accolades, however, for their fresh, delicious take on Le Big Mac at McDonald’s (1 Promenade des Anglais). With juicy beef, tangy cheese, real wheat bread, and fresh crispy lettuce, Le Big Mac doesn’t taste anything like its greasy American counterpart–and pairs well with champagne from the mini bar. This wasn’t our most gourmet meal on our trip, but it was certainly our most memorable, especially eaten on our terrace as we watched the joyful Algeria fans celebrate the tie with Russia in their third World Cup match.
The next day, after waking up with the abundant sun and packing for the next leg of our trip, we wandered through the Old Town, where you can find sidewalk cafes, antique shops, and market stalls among the storybook nooks and crannies. We enjoyed traditional Niçois bistro fare and several espressos in the shade at La Civette Du Cours (1 Cours Saleya), though I’d suggest you stop at any cafe that looks welcoming. You won’t have trouble finding one.
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